Dining
10 addresses in Paris and Madrid
SEXTO: twenty seats, one lunch, twelve courses
Juan Suárez de Lezo opened a seventh-floor room in the same building as quintoelemento, which shares its chef: one service a day and nothing else on offer.
Calle de Atocha 125, 7ª planta, 28012
Lunch only · over six, call or email ahead
ŌME: six stools, one door, and corn ground on site
Roberto Ortiz Blanco cooked at elBulli and ran the kitchen at Punto MX. Behind a discreet door in Salamanca he now builds a Mexican omakase for six people at a time.
Calle de Lombía 6, bajo, 28009
Booking by phone or website · six seats at the counter, six more at the Mesa del Chef and 18 to 20 in the street-side salón
Hanada: ten seats, one menu, a door marked only 15
Masayoshi Hanada left the counter at Sushi B to open his own house on the quai Voltaire. Less than a year later, a first star, and still ten seats a sitting.
15 quai Voltaire, 75007
Direct bookings with the house · no photographs
Amaterasu: sixteen seats in a basement behind Hotaru
A concealed omakase room inside a working restaurant on Calle de Alcalá — twelve courses at €85, two seatings, and a DJ on Thursday to Sunday nights, for sixteen people.
Calle de Alcalá, 99 (dentro de Hotaru), 28009
Reservations at amaterasumadrid.com, or by phone on 608 49 38 32
Éthanol: the Géosmine team's walk-in, from 5pm
Maxime Bouttier's second address sits a few metres from his one-star Géosmine, in a former cobbler's shop. No bookings, Spanish-style: you turn up from 17h30.
28 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011
No reservations · come at 17h30, when the doors open
Caviar Kaspia
A first-floor dining room above the shop, where the baked potato with caviar has outlived every trend on the Madeleine.
17 place de la Madeleine, 75008
Late service · jacket advised
Le Clarence
Prince Robert of Luxembourg's hôtel particulier off the Champs-Élysées: two Michelin stars, and a cellar built around Château Haut-Brion.
31 avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, 75008
Two Michelin stars · book weeks ahead
Amazónico, and the jazz club hidden beneath it
Sandro Silva's tropical room on Jorge Juan is the see-and-be-seen table of Barrio de Salamanca. The real move is downstairs: the Jungle Jazz Club plays live every night of the week.
Calle de Jorge Juan 20, 28001
Jungle Jazz Club live nightly
Ten con Ten
The Paraguas Group's Salamanca canteen: long lunches that drift into cocktails, and the room where deals get done at 3pm.
Calle de Ayala 6, 28001
Lunch from 2pm · terrace in season
DiverXO
Dabiz Muñoz's three-star theatre of a restaurant — the hardest table in Spain, released in monthly drops.
Calle de Padre Damián 23, 28036
Three Michelin stars · online release only
Nothing here yet — the first stories land in the next issue.
For curious minds with a taste for the exceptional
One dispatch a week from Paris and Madrid: where to go, when to be there, what not to miss.